48 Hours in New York City at Christmas

Christmas time in New York City is all sorts of merry. Between the Rockefeller Center Tree Lighting and the 5th Avenue Window Displays, the Union Square Holiday Market and the Wollman Rink in Central Park, the Radio City Rockettes and the New York City Ballet’s The Nutcracker – you best believe it’s a festive delight. Sprinkle on a salted soft pretzel, a hot apple cider, and a NYC bagel (or two), and you’re in for a holly, jolly treat! So brace yourselves, because I’m about to give you a whirlwind 48-hour tour of Manhattan… the holiday edition, that is. Before we begin, however, let me first establish my credibility as your tour guide by giving you a brief overview of my history with New York.

Back in 2003, my family moved to a small town called Chappaqua, situated one hour north of Manhattan. In the eight years that we lived there, I took the train into New York City a few dozen times, both with family and with friends. My family would attend the annual Kids Night on Broadway, visit my dad’s office at the United Nations Headquarters, and do all the obligatory touristy things in and around the city. My friends and I would shop along Lexington Avenue, sip shakes at Dylan’s Candy Bar, and devour crêpes at our favourite spot in SoHo. When we left New York in 2011, I more or less said goodbye to Chappaqua, but my love affair with Manhattan was just beginning.

In the summer of 2013, I checked into Chelsea International Hostel and took precollege courses at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Alone in the Big Apple for the first time, I pranced around like Gossip Girl’s one and only Blair Cornelia Waldorf. In the summer of 2015, I stayed in Murray Hill and interned at a startup called Vimbly. This was my first experience with the nine-to-five grind, working during the week and socializing on the weekends. In the summer of 2016, I lived in the East Village and interned at a Danish company called Reform. Based out of Brooklyn, I discovered a new borough of New York and took a liking to its many up and coming neighbourhoods.

Then there were a bunch of short visits and weekend trips over the years, but I think that’s enough babbling for now – let’s unwrap that Christmas guide you came here for!

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DAY ONE

Morning: BK Bagel & Chelsea Market

Seeing as New York is known for its bagels, it’s only fitting that we kick off this holiday tour with breakfast at Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee Company. Contrary to its name, these hand-rolled/kettle-boiled bagels are not found in Brooklyn, but rather at shops in Astoria, Chelsea, and Greenwich Village. I visited the Chelsea location, and word on the street is they have Christmas gingerbread bagels and eggnog cream cheese. Fuelled by seasonal flavours and beloved carbs, I then wandered down to Chelsea Market to browse the collection of distinctive and diverse merchants. As a world-renowned culinary destination and retail marketplace, housed in the former National Biscuit Company (Nabisco) factory, Chelsea Market lends itself to foodies and holiday shoppers alike. Here you can pick up locally crafted gifts at the annual week-long Holiday Handmade Cavalcade, presented by The NY Handmade Collective & Etsy.

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Afternoon: Union Square & Bryant Park

Of the many Christmas markets scattered throughout the neighbourhoods of Manhattan, the Union Square Holiday Market and Bryant Park Winter Village are two of the finest. Founded in 1972, Urbanspace gathers over 300 local vendors at Union Square and Columbus Circle, offering a curated section of locally produced goods as well as an eclectic mix of unique gifts. The Bank of America Winter Village at Bryant Park, on the other hand, is home to New York City’s only free admission ice skating rink and features artisanal boutiques with seasonal drinks and festive eats, among other things. Here I treated myself to a hot chocolate from Mrs. Claus Café and a gourmet soft pretzel from Sigmund’s Pretzels, then I scanned the Holiday Shops, which are housed in dozens of custom-designed kiosks. You can also step into The Lodge by Urbanspace, a rinkside cocktail bar and bustling food hall with a full range of eateries, serving both familiar and foreign flavours.

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Evening: Times Square & Rockefeller Plaza

Just a stone’s throw away from Bryant Park, Times Square lies at the centre of the Theatre District. Commonly referred to as the ‘crossroads of the world’, there’s no shortage of electronic billboards, luxury cinemas, and unique dining experiences – I have fond memories of Ellen’s Stardust Diner from my childhood, the home of the singing waitstaff. To get from Times Square to Rockefeller Plaza, walk eastbound on 47th Street, through the famed Diamond District. Once there, explore the life-sized plushes at FAO Schwartz and take photos in front of the Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree. I just so happened to be in town for the 87th Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony, an annual event that’s free and open to the public. This year’s lineup of performances included John Legend, Derek and Julianne Hough, Brett Eldredge, Idina Menzel, Gwen Stefani, Lea Michele, Chicago, NE-YO, Straight No Chaser, Skylar Astin and Alex Newell, and the legendary Radio City Rockettes.

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DAY TWO

Morning: Ess-a-Bagel & Grand Central

Wake up and smell the coffee bagels! Established in 1976, Ess-a-Bagel is located at the heart of Midtown East, serving up hand-rolled bagels that are certified kosher and free from animal products. The shop is open on all holidays, excluding Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, which means that you can get your ‘everything on a bagel’ fix come Christmas Day. Just a few blocks away, Grand Central Terminal is more than a transportation hub, it’s a lively cultural destination and a must-see architectural landmark. With chandeliers weighing 2,500 lbs in Vanderbilt Hall, windows measuring 60 feet tall by 30 feet wide in the Main Concourse, and 40 talented vendors displaying their crafts at the Holiday Fair, there’s much to be discover beneath the celestial ceiling. This is where I used to come in on the train from Chappaqua way back when, along with the three-quarter million visitors who pass through Grand Central Terminal every day.

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Afternoon: 5th Avenue & Central Park

Nothing says ‘Christmas in NYC’ quite like the holiday window displays along 5th Avenue. From Macy’s and Louis Vuitton to Bloomingdale’s and American Girl, the unveiling of each design is always a highly anticipated event. I was most impressed by the displays at Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman this year, the former being a collaboration with Disney’s Frozen II and the latter being a collection of party-inspired overhead shots. Walking northbound on 5th Avenue will lead you straight to the southern border of Central Park, the largest public park in Manhattan. Here you can go ice skating at Wollman Rink, sip hot chocolate at The Loeb Boathouse, ponder life in the Tree House for Dreaming, take a spin on the Central Park Carousel, and pay a visit to my all-time favourite statue: Balto.

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Evening: Eataly & Serra Alpina by Birreria

All of these Christmas shenanigans have surely made you hungry, so head to Eataly (Eat + Italy) for a true Italian holiday mercatino experience, followed by a feast at Serra Alpina by Birreria. Eataly’s Holiday Market is a limited time pop-up market at each of its two NYC locations – Flatiron and Downtown – where Italian traditions meet 21st century New Yorkers. Here you can shop for culinary gifts from Italy, take part in a series of tasting demonstrations, and even customize your own gift box with the help of experts. Afterwards, make your way up to the 14th floor of Eataly NYC Flatiron for a festive dinner at Serra Alpina (‘winter greenhouse’ in Italian), where the atmosphere changes with the seasons. I went with three of my college friends from Michigan and enjoyed the Risotto alla Barbietola in good company, a lovely setting in which to conclude this 48-hour holiday tour of New York City.

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Merry Christmas, my friends!

With ♡, Julia Elizabeth