Riga: Discovering the Old Town of Latvia’s Capital

Known for its charming Old Town, or Vecrīga in Latvian, Riga is brimming with historic churches and cathedrals, medieval architecture, and cultural landmarks. Before traveling to the Baltic states, Riga was the capital I had heard the most about, perhaps because it is the largest city in all of Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia. Its historic center was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 and has become an increasingly popular tourist destination, drawing visitors from all around the world. After visiting the lesser known Lithuanian capital and discovering what I believe is one of Europe’s best kept secrets, I was eager to see how Riga would compare. I hopped on the bus from Vilnius to Riga and arrived in the capital of Latvia just four hours later – naturally, I headed straight for the Old Town.

 
Svētā Pētera Baznīca, St. Peter’s Church
 
One of the city’s oldest and most significant monuments, the St. Peter’s Church holds over 800 years of history. Although only a few walls and pillars remain from its original construction in 1209, the church still displays some of the finest 13th century Gothic architecture. The main attraction of the church is its 123 meter tall tower, the tallest spire in Riga with an incredible view of the city from above. This tower has collapsed several times, most notably in 1666 due to strong winds and again in 1791 after being struck by lightning, but the current tower has been standing strong since 1973 so I decided to take my chances. From the top, I could clearly see the divide between the Old Town and the modern district of Central Riga, separated by the Pilsētas Kanāls, City Canal.

 
Brēmenes muzikanti, Bremen Town Musicians
 
Safely back on the ground, I found the Bremen Town Musicians standing just outside the church, an iconic statue of a donkey, a dog, a cat and a rooster. The monument was created by Bremen artist Krista Baumgaertel in 1990 and then gifted by Riga’s sister city Bremen, representing a comic stance on previous political stereotypes. Located on Skārņu Street, these animals are said to be peering through the Iron Curtain into a new world, a symbol of Latvian independence. I read that rubbing on each of the animal’s noses is good luck, so I slipped my hand out of my warm mitten and gave the creatures a little rub. I wish I could confirm this is true, but considering I came down with a slight fever the following day, I’m a little skeptical. Nevertheless, it’s a fun sculpture to look at.

 
Rīgas Centrāltirgus, Riga Central Market
 
If you’re a loyal reader of my blog, you have probably picked up on my obsession with local markets, and the Riga Central Market took that love to a whole new level. Situated inside of huge Zeppelin hangars that were originally built for use by the German military, the architecture is incredibly unique. When this market opened its doors in 1930, it was recognized as the largest and most modern market in the world, and it remains one of Europe’s largest closed markets today with upwards of 80,000 people shopping here daily. Sometimes referred to as the ‘belly of the city’, this market quite literally provides a taste of the Latvian culture and traditions that you can’t find anywhere else. Just be aware that the overpowering smells of pickles, sauerkraut, and fish may very well follow you out the door.

 
Zviedru vārti, Swedish Gate
 
The Swedish Gate is the only gate of the Old Town wall that remains standing today. It is said that Peter the Great thought so highly of the Swedes that he allowed the Swedish troops who protected Riga during the 1710 siege of the Russian Empire to leave through this gate. Constructed in 1698, this gate provided access to the barracks outside the city wall between sunrise and sunset and I read that the apartment above the gate belonged to the city executioner. Apparently a red rose would be placed on the ledge of the window the morning before a head rolled… thankfully times have changed.

 
Bastejkalns Parks, Bastion Hill Park
 
Separating the Old Town from Central Riga, the Bastion Hill Park is named after the former tower hill and is known for being one of the most romantic places in the city. Newlyweds have a tradition of attaching a lock to the small bridge by the canal as a symbol of their strong unity, but the bridge is looking quite full these days so I sure hope they have a backup plan. From the bridge you can see the Brīvības Piemineklis, Freedom Monument, a 42.7 meter tall granite and copper symbol of Latvia’s fight for freedom. Also in plain sight is the Laimas Pulkstenis, Laima Clock, once a favorite romantic rendezvous spot for couples which makes sense since Laima is the largest producer of chocolate and sweets in the Baltics.

 
Trīs Brāļi, The Three Brothers
 
Along Mazā Pils Iela, Maza Pils Street, the Three Brothers are found at street numbers 17, 19, and 21. These three historical houses make up the oldest medieval dwelling complex in the city, each representing a different architectural style from the respective time period in which they were built. The youngest dates back to the 15th century and the oldest to the 17th century, with some renovations taking place in the 18th century. While not much is known about the history of the houses, they do make a beautiful backdrop for photos and the Latvian Museum of Architecture is found at address 19.

Wandering in and around the Old Town of Riga feels like a fairytale, despite the temperature hovering around minus 15 degrees celsius. As I briefly mentioned, I did come down with a slight fever and spent a couple of days lingering in cafés drinking copious amounts of tea, but I think I hit most of the highlights. In comparison to Vilnius, I found Riga’s Old Town and its sights to be on a grander scale with more variety in terms of things to see and do, while Vilnius felt more quaint. All things considered, I will always have a soft spot in my heart for less mainstream cities such as Vilnius, but I can see why Riga is a more popular tourist destination.

Have you visited the Baltic states? If so, which capital was your favorite?